Rio de Janeiro Part 1 and Buzios

Arrived in Rio super early in the morning, and was driven to the hostel in the Botafogo district by an IDIOT taxi driver who couldn't speak Spanish OR English. After being dropped off, we walked up the 500 steps to the reception in the hot, humid evening (almost DIED from the heat) and finally got a decent nights sleep after having to coerce the lady manning the desk to let us have a bed. Played with the monkeys on the roof of the hostel at breakfast - lots of fresh fruit here, which makes a change to the bread and dulce de leche I've been having for the last few months. We took a trip to the Engenhao Stadium, where we tried to buy tickets for the football on Wednesday Fluminense vs Boca Juniors, which was made doubly exciting (apparently) by the fact that it was essentially one of Brazil's top teams against the top team in Argentina.
We didn't actually manage to get any tickets while there, our Portuguese skills were nowhere near good enough, but the staff managed to communicate in broken Spanglish/Portuguese that the tickets were not on sale yet. We're seriously going to struggle here if the locals don't even speak SPANISH....Oh well, we meet the lovely Carla (who I met back in Santiago), and she took us out for "traditional" Brazilian food; quite similar to Greek Meze in style, but definitely does not compare in flavour! Great to see Carla again. She used to work at Christ the Redeemer and still has contacts there, so she's arranged to get us in for free...and because of our absolutely lacking Portuguese skills, she offers to organise the football for us too! How lovely.

The next day we take the very early journey to Buzios. A lovely chilled out atmosphere, and we find that the hostel that we've booked is not only ON the beach. But we have an ocean view too! AMAZING!!! Spend ages looking for a beach that will have a view of the sunset, but the water here is too cold to go in. We have sunbathing time and coconut water to help cool off...yummy!! A lovely restaurant along the boulevard for dinner - the first time I've had fish in a very long time - and some delicious wine that I recognised as one from one of the wineries that I visited in Mendoza. YUMMY.

We woke up to the BEST breakfast in South America so far. Lots of fruit and FRESH ORANGE JUICE!! Spent a few hours on the stunning Feredinho beach on the south of the peninsula in Buzios and then back to Rio for some more fun and frolics!!

Buenos Aires Part 2

Back in Buenos Aires, and the Avenue 9 de Julio, the world's largest avenue at 9 lanes long, is closed thanks to the T2000 Grand Prix. We try and check out what the fuss is about, but can't see much, so we have a wander We find the Teatro Colón after about an hour of roaming the streets (apparently I can't read a map). The only seats left at the theatre for this week were box seats to Carmen (the ballet) - so Thiv splashed out! Looking forward to that later on this week!!





Sunday morning is market day!!! So we head to San Telmo, centre for artesan crafts and improvised tango on the streets. Antiques are massive here (think Portobello market on a Sunday), and we stop for been and empanadas (by the way, if you're wondering what empanadas are, think a Spanish take on Cornish pasties and you're pretty much there). A lunchtime tango show ensues and we definitely enjoy our first introduction to the Argentine Tango. Music groups have shows on the streets and we stop and listen for a while. I start to feel a little bit better about my camera being stolen when I see a guy have his wallet nicked - not subtly either - the pickpocket jumped off a motorbike to grab this guy's wallet and then hopped back on and made a quick getaway. Also one of the girls behind the desk told me that she goes through about a phone a month because things are always stolen. OUCH! We manage to score tickets to the famous Cafe Tortoni (thanks Don for the tip) in the evening and treat ourselves to some Mumm. My boyfriend certainly knows how to charm people - even with a language barrier! We end up with second row seats. Score! And WHAT a show!

The next stop was Puerto Madero - we had the intention of visiting the ecological reserve, but ended up just wondering around the area. The area was designed in the C19th, but soon after it was built, the new cargo ships were too big, and so the area became non-functional. Now a gastronomy hub, we thought we would be able to find some good food before heading out in the evening; but everything was so RIDICULOUSLY overpriced that we had to stick to good old TGI Fridays. Now tell me...have you ever heard of a TGI's that doesn't do steak? IN ARGENTINA?! Crazy. We head out to Bomba del Tiempo - it's such a brilliant place, the music is just spectacular. This time there is a famous pianist that they bring on stage - can't believe how well the show worked mixing the classical music with the drums!

So the next day we decide we will do an open air tour of the city (it's pretty big and it's hop-on-hop-off so will probably actually save us money in the long run...) - unfortunately it's so packed we won't be able to get on a bus until 4pm. So we go shopping (one needs suitable clothes for the ballet tomorrow after all...). Once we get the bus, we pass through the districts of Recoleta, Palermo and it's parks, the polo park and a mini Bicester Village. We get back to the hostel in time to catch a free tango lesson, and a live band plays for the rest of the night in the hostel. The Long Island Iced Teas are LETHAL.

The Recoleta district has enough history of it's own, so we take a walking tour to the district with our lovely guide Valeria and she talked us through the history of Buenos Aires, including why 90% of the population is from Italian and Spanish descent (I just not be able to remember why that is anymore). This is the traditionally rich area of Buenos Aires, and after Yellow Fever struck in the poorer neighbourhoods, the rich relocated here, and hired French architects - the area now houses the most expensive hotels and shops in Buenos Aires (and some of the hotels are in the most expensive in the world). The University of Buenos Aires is here - a great University, and free to anyone in the world who wants to study here...if you can put up with the study conditions! Of course, part of the tour included the necessary visit to Recoleta Cemetery to visit the Eva Peron crypt. This place is like a city of dead people. No lies.

Grabbed the hop-on-hop-off through La Boca and Puerto Madero before dashing back to the hostel to get ready for the Teatro Colon. And it was MAGNIFICENT. Not only were we in box seats (a very new experience), but the theatre itself definitely rivals the Royal Opera House in opulence! And the ballet was just BEAUTIFUL. What a day!

In typical tourist style, we head to La Boca for another walking tour with our very knowledgeable guide! This is the part of town that was traditionally used by immigrants to set up shop, being on the coast. These people would have to find somewhere to work and live within 3 days of arriving otherwise they would be kicked out. How awful! As a result, the oldest neighbourhoods have houses made up of leftover wood and corrugated metal and painted with leftover paint from the boats, which is way La Boca is famed for its bright colours . The tour included a visit to La Bombonera stadium, home of Boca Juniors football team. Thiv got so excited about the Diego Maradona memorabilia! In the evening we went to a show called the Tango Complejo, the wine and dinner was AMAZING, but the lesson was terrrible, and the show itself, although not as good as Cafe Tortoni, was pretty interesting because it took us through the history of the Tango in Argentina. Originally a macho dance performed between men to win the best "ladies of the night", then a walk betwen a guy and a girl dating and finally in the 40s it became the sexy dance we know today.

Easter Weekend and the markets are open around town, and we came away with some purchases, before heading to the Malba Modern Art museum, where we both realised we hate modern art. Onwards to the beautiful Japanese gardens, where we got ourselves all excited about the best sushi in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately due to time restraints and the queue for sushi, we had to make do with hamburgers instead! Running late for the airport in the end, and although we didn't quite need a callout, we were still the last people on the plane! WHAT A PLANE! I always want to fly Emirates from now on! There was an actual MENU, comfy seats, a HUGE selection of films and I have never been so excited by face towels in my whole life. We even had a polaroid snap for us to take away with us. I need shares in this airline. OFF TO RIO!!!!!!

Buenos Aires part 1 and La Porteña

So, Buenos Aires. After a 20 hour bus journey, I reach Buenos Aires city. I get a cab to the hostel and the nice driver gives me a mini-tour of the city and warns me that now is not a good time to be English (the anniversary of the Falklands war is coming up). Once settled in, I head to Vila Crespo (a very non-touristy part of town) to meet up with Nick (from Torres del Paine) and his sister, whose birthday it was. After an "asado" which was actually more like a BBQ, we headed to Bomba del Tiempo, a 14-piece improvisational drumming sensation! It was BRILLIANT.

The next morning, I take a very early cab to the airport with my driver Eugenio to surprise Thiv at the airport. His flight was delayed by almost an hour, but I did finally make contact and somehow still managed to surprise Thiv even though I thought I had made it far too obvious (thanks Mum!). We checked into a small "trendy" hotel in Palermo, the shopping district, and spend the afternoon walking through the parks. We go for steak - unfortunately they're cooked to oblivion (helpful pointer, if you're in Argentina, always ask for your steak to be done one or two grades below your usual preference...unless you like the taste of charcoal of course). The mashed pumpkin sure made up for it though, that bit and the wine was delicious!!

Next day, a fun-filled shopping day in Palermo Viejo (the old part of town), having a nose around at the leather goods here, much cheaper than at home in the UK. Will definitely have a harder look when we get back from our stay in the estancia. We even have a look at some fairly cheap leather jackets up in the leather district. We save it for another day, we're so shopped-out we head for dinner at the famous La Cabrera, where it's apparently common to wait for up to 2 hours outside (with free champagne while we waited so we weren't too fussed). Stomachs were definitely gurgling when we were finally seated at midnight; mine was overdone (standard Argentinan cooking), although the side dishes that came out with it were pretty AWESOME!! So many to choose from!

So next we head from Palermo to San Antonio de Areco, where we're staying at an estancia (ranch) for a few days. Fate had another idea for our morning. Magical pickpockets on the Buenos Aires tube system manage to separate me and Thiv and stole my camera. And I hadn't backed them up! That will teach me for next time. At least it wasn't the passports. A fun trip to the police station to try and describe what happened (impressively I managed to do this in Spanish!) and then finally managed to get the bus to the estancia La Porteña and we make the final horse ride of the day. The rooms are so picturesque, exactly what I imagined.

The birds are so noisy here that we wouldn't have been able to have a lie in even if we wanted to. A great sunny day though so we chill out by the pool for the morning. Then empanadas and wine in hand we walked through the grounds and were treated to an asado for lunch. I have never seen people take meat so seriously! After the lunch, we had the staff at the estancia serenade us with traditional folk songs and teach us some traditional dancing, before the gauchos race and give a demonstration of how they used to traditionally propose to women of the estancias. They basically try to loop a ring suspended by a hook onto a branch and then present this ring to the girl of their choice. Pretty funny stuff. The second ride of the day was somewhat eventful. Seriously, the first time we're allowed to go faster than a walk, the gaucho hadn't put the saddle on properly, and it came off as soon as my horse got going! Ow!

By the next day we're ready to get back to the civilised world of Buenos Aires. We have a friendly visitor at breakfast and then we head off ready to explore the real Buenos Aires. Can't wait!!!

Argentina's Patagonia...

So I arrive in El Calafate late and climb a BEAST of a hill to reach the hostel, I'm being naughty and trying to surprise Thiv at the airport. So hard not to tell him the truth, but will be TOTALLY worth it when I see his face!!

A pretty early start for the Perito Moreno glacier trip, but was totally worth it. Absolutely breathtaking - it's on of the vey few glaciers in the world that is ACTALLY growing in size. It recdes too and we were in luck because we could actually hear the CRACK just before watching massive chunks of ice falling in the water! Spent about 4 hours walking around the park seeing this enormous glacier from different angles. I even managed to catch a photo of the ice falling in the water! Crazy!

After the trip I head to El Chaltén, home of the Fitzroy formation. Come across some English girls at the bus terminal and we proceed to find ourselves a hostel. After at least half an hour of looking, we're grateful to find somewhere, but I think we should have been alerted to the fact that this wasn't the best hostel in the world by a) the Israeli girls complaining that no-one had cleaned their rooms and b) money was asked for up front before we had even seen the room. My WORD that place was disgusting! We cooked dinner in an absolutely fly-infested kitchen, and the room was worse...still so many flies, but the room stank of gas, the bathroom looked like it had never been cleaned and I'm not convinced the sheets are clean! Definitely a night for the sleeping bag liner.

Need to get the hell out of that hostel, so walk around town until we find one thats clean. Afterwards, we grab breakfast and coffee at a place that has WiFi and Thiv gives me stick for not being in contact...if only he knew how hard I was trying to get to the airport on time!! Ironic really! Take a hike up to the Fitzroy formation for 6 hours. It's stunning, although I think I still prefer Torres del Paine. This is the Argentinian version. A 6 hour walk in total and WOW my legs hate me; I don't think I'll be trekking again for a while! Went to a brewery for beer and pizza. Definitely deserved after the day we had!

The next day I realise that if I'm going to meet Thiv at the airport, I have to go back to go forward, so I'm booked on a bus back to El Calafate (and to make up for the inconvenience they sort me for a few nights accommodation too). I head to the Viedma glacier, which I think is the largest in South America, and pay for an excursion which I take to be ice climbing, but just turned out to be a trip on a boat TO the glacier, which was a little disappointing and a bit of a waste, but I realise that I couldn't have spent the time on a longer trip anyway - especially when it turns out there's a power cut in el Chaltén when I get back and I have no access to the confirmation email about the buses! It comes back on just in time, and luckily everything is fine. Plus points of being female out here; everyone tries to go out of their way to help you...I fluttered my eyelashes a bit too I guess...but I seemed to remember the previous bus stopping before the bus station on the way to el Calafate before so I thought I would try and ask the bus driver. At first the answer was "I can't, I'm not allowed", then at the terminal offered to take me a few blocks closer, until finally he just gave me a lift to the hostel! What a guy! The hostel is LUXURY...I get a 4 bed dorm to myself WITH A TV!!! I couldn't believe my luck. And the bathroom is clean. Bliss.

The next few days is mainly admin and travelling to Bariloche - it's a 28 hour bus journey, made a lot better by movies. This is pretty much the Israeli bus - who knew they travelled so much?! Some very stodgy food too, makes me appreciate even the worst plane food. I do meet some very cool people on the bus who I had also bumped into in El Calafate and El Chaltén and we hit up some martinis and Mexican food. So tasty...! The next day Google decides it's the day to lock me out of my email. What a nightmare - can't they see that I'm travelling round South America and therefore another log in from a place in Argentina is far from odd?! Anyway, ignoring that, I go on the Circuito Chico circuit in Bariloche and visit more lakes and more mountains. The view from the top of Cerro Campanero is supposed to be number 7 in the world according to National Geographic. I'm not so sure. I'm a bit indifferent to lakes and mountains now and am DYING to see a city or the beach.

Lots of other beautiful views, and our final stop is Hotel Llao llao, which means super sweet in some native language after the mushrooms that grow in this region. The only 5 star hotel in Patagonia, it's an impressive sight.

I meet up with the guys from yesterday and we go horse-riding in the area of Cerro Campanero, and whilst at the beginning I wasn't sure if my horse was just going to keel over and die, by the end the horse was GALLOPING. So much fun. We all head out afterwards for the BEST steak I've had in Argentina and some pretty good wine too - mmmmm - and then out to an "Irish Pub", which didn't even sell Guiness...you get the picture...

Now, Bariloche is particularly known for it's chocolate, so it would be incredibly rude not to visit one of the shops/cafes that sells it right? It's coming up to Easter, so the place is FULL of Easter eggs, looks pretty tasty, so grab a little box and then off I go on the 20 hour bus journey to Buenos Aires.

Can't Wait.

Torres del Paine National Park

So now I will relay to you the disaster that was the Torres del Paine trip - only organisational mind, the place itself is amazing. Also, I have finally worked out how to put pictures in this thing, so enjoy!

The trip I was supposed to take was a 5 day, 4 night trek through the "W" section of the park, stopping at 4 different "Refugios" along the way (shown in the picture above). Now due to an Israeli boy setting up his own camp a few months ago and burning down a third of the national park, one of the Refugios, Paine Grande had now been sold to another company, meaning that the last 2 nights would both be spent at Los Cuernos. Additionally, although the booking was made in October last year, they hadn't actually allocated the accommodation to me, so the Refugio Chileno was booked out, meaning 2 nights in the Hosteria Las Torres. The idea of the accommodation I had booked was to make my life easier, and after doing Aconcagua, my legs could certainly use a break! Not just that, but down to the recommendations of some people, I had to see the Grey Glacier. Bear in mind that now I would be walking from Los Cuernos, and the boat out of the park actually leaves out of Paine Grande, thats a very long day!!

Day 1: Before I leave Puerto Natales for the park, I find a great English-run cafe with Chai tea and Camembert. Bliss! The bus picks me up from the hostel and we make our way to the national park. The refugio is nice, a bit like a slightly run down hostel, but I guess a bit better than I was expecting. The only problem is that they give you the option when you book the refugios of bringing your own food, or for just 300 pounds more, you can sample the delights of their cooking for 5 days. The only problem is that although you're already staying in these lodges you're not allowed to use the kitchen area. Ridiculous no? AND, on top of this, they don't provide an area for you to cook your own food if you do bring it - no shelter from the rain, not allowed to eat indoors, nothing. I am outraged. And this is just the first night.

Day 2: Woke up early to begin the walk up to the Torres del Paine, the famous granite towers that give the park its name. Very steep for the first hour or so, and reached the el Chileno without any dramas! I ran into the Aussies from the boat here, and round the corner, some friends from Pucón.

By this point I'm already pretty tired, but the views are amazing and it's a beautiful sunny day. I surprisingly find phone signal and someone texts me to get to Starbucks tomorrow for a free coffee...not likely I think!

From here up to the final hour or so of walking was a lovely trail, crossing rivers and streams, and was mainly in the forest. The whole park is stunning. At the last restpoint, I meet some Canadians from Toronto, who take me under their wing for the rest of the day and pretty much quiz me on my life. When lunch comes round, they give me some of their lunch (they had a packed lunch made for them at the hotel they're staying in back in Puerto Natales.

The MOST AMAZING tomato soup and roast beef sandwiches I've had for a LONG time. I feel like I'm in heaven. And the top itself is just amazing - breathtaking. Even though by now the clouds have come in a little, this is unbelievable. This is why people come here, even with the stresses of the refugios!

Quote of the day came from a German guy who literally walked to the top of the Torres, took a photo, and went straight back down. He passed us on our way down both times. When he walked past

the second time we said, "Didn't you just go up?"
To which he replies "I've got a bus to catch."!

We were in stiches for quite a while. Why bother, the point is to take in the views surely?
I'm given a beer at the bottom from the Canadians as a thank you for putting up with them. Luxury!

I get back to the refugio and (naughtily) cook inside the building on my little camp stove. I, of course, get told off. But with no places on-site I'm allowed to cook, what do they expect?!

Day 3: The trip today was Hosteria Las Torres to Los Cuernos. A lovely sunny day, and what was supposed to be a fairly easy walk proved slightly more difficult after suffering mild concussion 1 hour in! Whilst crossing a stream, in my usual clutzy style, I didn't see the branch above my head as I was stepping out. D'oh! It hurt quite a lot, and made progress pretty slow. A day that was supposed to take 3-4 hours ended up taking 6 or 7 hours.



Got to the top of a pretty big steep bit and sat for a while, head pounding, and another group of Aussies came along and 'nursed me' ie. put on a 'band aid'! But they were lovely, and walked with me to the refugio, making up more elaborate stories about how the concussion occured as we went along. The new 'official' story goes along the lines of a condor and a puma attacking me and Nick fighting them off single handedly!

We got to the hostel with the sun still up (just about). I find someone else who's braving cooking, and we find somewhere to cook outside, because this place is even smaller than the place before, and there's nowhere to hide! I have a very cold night's sleep here - "bed" was a mattress on the floor. I had expected to at least have a bed when I organised the tour. If I had wanted to sleep on the floor, I would have chosen the camping option!

Reminders around the park of the Israeli boy who burnt down 1/3 of the park.

 Day 4: Quote of the day: 'you snooze, you win'. We woke up pretty late and thinking the Aussies had gone ahead, I headed for the French valley - absolutely pouring with rain. Got to a campsite along the way and stopped in the sheltered area for a while: my head was hurting anyway and it seemed like a good idea considering the miserable weather. I was contemplating going down when yesterdays Aussies, Nick, Bryce and Ingrid turned up. As we're standing in the shelter, the rain eases and the sun comes out a tiny bit, so we head up the valley. 




We were not disappointed, it was STUNNING! I can't begin to describe the idyll of the lakes and glaciers. The photos don't even do it justice (particularly because of the clouds). We got to the top for lunch and headed back down as the rain started to pick up again. We even managed to catch an avalanche on the way down! 

A great day, and we head back to the refugio. I somehow manage to wangle a free dinner by sitting with the others and some Americans confused the waitress with a vegetarian order. Score! I did NOT want to have to cook outside, so a double win! 

Nick has invited me to his sister's birthday party in BA on the 26th...she lives there, and it certainly will be a good way to get to know the city! I'm already trying to get up to BA for that day anyway. We'll see...

Another very cold nights sleep...not too happy!!

Day 5: Long day! Do the 5 hour walk to Paine Grande in 3 hours. It's shocking to see all the burnt areas of the park. It's quite sad really, but a melancholic kind of beauty.









Bryce said something that made me think: This is quite special, as horrible as it is that 1/3 of the park is burnt; we'll be one of few who see it in this state. 

It's cool to see the new vegetation growing already! The park will be back to normal in about a year probably.

My feet hurt like crazy when I got to the refugio, so walked around only an hour towards Lago Grey. Got to the catamaran, and took the long journey back to Puerto Natales. Hannah and I go to Afrigonia, a Chilean/Kenyan fusion restaurant: Scallop and prawn curry, rice, pisco and dessert for £10! 

 A nice lie in once I'm back in civilisation, good to be in a proper bed. I suddenly realise I left my camera on the bus last night! I had fallen asleep on the bus and woke up suddenly, disorientated. THANKFULLY Chilean people are wonderful and the bus company sent it to me in a taxi. Phew! Stress over, we go somewhere for the BIGGEST sandwiches EVER and then wander by the port before leaving on the bus to el Calafate, Argentina.

The Navimag: Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales.

Major catch up time.

So I leave Ancud at stupid-o'-clock in the morning and sleep all the way to Puerto Montt, a fairly dreary and drab city (so glad I made the choice not to stay here). "Boarding time" is between 9:30 and 11:30, but in true South American fashion the boarding time isn't actually until 14:30. Luckily I bump into the Dutch girls from Ancud, and we stop to buy some alpaca hats (glaciers are cold don't you know) and grab some alcohol from the local supermarket to keep us going on the boat (only an overpriced bar on-board). The carrier bags are akin to the new super-thin-can't-use-them-for-carrying-a-pint-of-milk-bags Tesco are currently demo-ing. So when the bag-packer puts two bottles of wine in one of these bags, it's bad news. Within 1m of the till, the bag breaks and a 1.5L bottle of wine comes crashing to the floor. A very nice old man starts yelling that it's the boy's fault, and soon we're being profusely apologised to by management and presented with new bottles of wine. Phew!

With that fiasco over with we head back and finally board the boat. The bunk beds are rather squashed looking, and hit my head sitting down on the bed when I first arrive. Not a good start. On the top deck, we find a giant chessboard, and while waiting for the boat to leave, I find myself watching a couple of Australians play. Well, one was getting a thrashing. His ass was getting handed to him, so I offered a few suggestions and suddenly I'm an "expert" (with my VERY rusty chess skills...) and before I know it I'm on the team! The boys are pretty cool and the real chess champion comes along and wipes the floor with everyone.

Soon afterwards, we are introduced to every single member of staff on board (no word of a lie) and we were expected to clap for the introduction of each person. Personally, I thought it was a little over the top considering they hadn't done anything yet. Maybe it would have been due if we had docked at the other end safely! Safety briefing over, we watch a National Geographic documentary on Patagonian wildlife. A sign of things to come.

Breakfast is at 8am. Not cool. Don't people know that sleep is a cherished past-time? We spend most of the next few days on the lookout for whales and dolphins, and we do catch a glimpse of some dolphins swimming alongside the boat. I find out these guys are also headed to Torres del Paine (along with pretty much the rest of the boat, there isn't that much to do in Puerto Natales). Due to the poor visibility (it had started to rain by this point), the captain decided to take a detour from the usual route and take us past an glacier called the Iceberg glacier, which is a lot wider, but not as high as the other glaciers we would have passed. It was breath-taking. The lead-up was a series of small ice-bergs (there were lots of people re-enacting Titanic), and the glacier itself was just SO BLUE. It was unbelievable.

We were given the opportunity to dis-embark for an hour at Puerto Eden, a town of 250 people, and while the option was tempting after 3 days on a boat, the heaven's decided to open, and I chose (wisely) that I wouldn't go. Just as well, because everyone who went looked so miserable when they came back! The entertainment on the final night on the boat is Bingo and Fiesta. It was good to break up the tedium anyway!

We arrive into port the next day, and on the approach we see more ice-capped peaks, which gets us all excited to get into the Torres del Paine national park. We spend the evening picking up last minute items and food for the trek, and then go for the unhealthiest meal imaginable: Pizza with tonnes of cheese, and a plate of chips, chicken bacon and EVEN more cheese. Thank goodness we're going to work it off the next few days!

Puerto Varas and Ancud, Chiloe

Now that I'm getting seriously behind on the blog posts, I think it's time that I did some serious updating!!

So arrival in Puerto Varas, looks pretty dodgy at first. So my experience in Puerto Varas wasn't amazing. A quaint town and probably what I needed after the frivolities of the previous  places. I head up to the viewpoint of town, Cerro Phillippi, but it was pouring down with rain; most of my time is taken up the next couple of days by chilling out on the lake and visiting the local handicrafts markets. So, bored of Puerto Varas, I head to Frutillar, a very quaint German town (literally, there were "kuchenladen"s and everything). It's pretty stunning, on the East side of Lake Llaniquehue, which Puerto Varas borders too. It's directly in front of the Orsorno volcano, and the views are pretty stunning. Is it bad that the highlight of my trip here is the toilets I found in the theatre there?? Well, it was, and while I was there, I went to a free photography exhibition on the famous people of Chile, which was pretty cool, and I definitely looked the part walking around with my DSLR. Got back to Varas in time to catch a tour to the Osorno volcano. I didn't climb it this time. Phew! No, 79 people died in the last 9 months from trying to climb the volcano, so it's off limits. Thank goodness, I don't think my legs would be able to cope! The tour was interesting - 4 Brazilians and myself meant that the tour wasn't even given in Spanish. It's in Portuguese. Great. Don't understand a thing, and after most of the talking the guide finally asks me if I understood anything and repeats what he can be bothered to say in English. Turns out the reason why so many people died climbing the volcano (which is only 2,500m) is because a neighbouring volcano (I've forgotten the name) became active and started spewing ash, much like the Iceland disaster a little while back. This not only impaired visibility, but weakened the ice, so that when people were trekking over what looked like a flat glacier, there were cravasses under some of the sections of ice with only thin sheets of ice over the top, that were giving way when people were climbing up. Probably a good thing I gave it a miss then.

I get a few recommendations while I'm here about a place called Ancud, in Chiloe, an island about half an hour from the mainland, and I change up my schedule to leave Puerto Varas early and skip over to Puerto Montt (which is a dive, so I'm pretty glad I'm not sticking around). But I make a BIG mistake on the second bus, I fall asleep and don't really pay attention to where we are. Suddenly I wake up as we leave what looks to be Ancud bus station (turns out there are 3, easy mistake). I get out of the bus and trudge the now 30 minutes back to the bus station, and then realise I'm at the wrong bus terminal to get to the hostel I've booked. Oops. I ask a few people how far it is to walk. One guy tells me that it's really far and offers me a lift. Unfortunately for me, he's a taxi driver, and so of course he's trying to take me for a ride. I'm so tired and fed up by this point that I arrange a price and get to the hostel just fine. The hostel is amazing, comfy beds, nice showers.

Now Ancud is a pretty town. All the churches in Ancud, and the other city, Castro, are UNESCO world heritage sites. I walk to the fort and have a look around (must  learn more about Chilean history) and the markets. The fish market there was pretty cool, and one of the fishmongers was cutting up some stone-looking sea creature called piura (apparently translates as sea-squirt, but I have no idea what that means either), and I tried some (raw) and it was an interesting strong smoky flavour. Strange. The owner of the hostel, Claudio, is pretty cool and he and his friend Francisco invited me in for beer and cooked me pasta. Awesome. The next morning, I get why people recommended this hostel. There are SCRAMBLED EGGS for breakfast. Sounds ridiculous to be this excited by scrambled eggs, but it's the little things..! Claudio arranged a tour of the north part of the island, and we went to see the penguins!! Everyone is into birds here, even Claudio had a book on birds of Chile in his car - and we spotted a Kingfisher before arriving at the beach. The penguin tour is a little tour around some of the islands and we learn that penguins have a gland in their mouths that pumps out the salt enabling them to drink sea water. Pretty cool! Have a dodgy empanada and head to the rocky beach of Petrohue. Stunning. I find out the Dutch girls on our tour are coming on the Navimag, the boat that leaves from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. So after much alcohol consupmtion and some pretty tasty hot dogs, I hit the sack. Drinking probably wasn't the best idea the day before a long boat trip....