Torres del Paine National Park

So now I will relay to you the disaster that was the Torres del Paine trip - only organisational mind, the place itself is amazing. Also, I have finally worked out how to put pictures in this thing, so enjoy!

The trip I was supposed to take was a 5 day, 4 night trek through the "W" section of the park, stopping at 4 different "Refugios" along the way (shown in the picture above). Now due to an Israeli boy setting up his own camp a few months ago and burning down a third of the national park, one of the Refugios, Paine Grande had now been sold to another company, meaning that the last 2 nights would both be spent at Los Cuernos. Additionally, although the booking was made in October last year, they hadn't actually allocated the accommodation to me, so the Refugio Chileno was booked out, meaning 2 nights in the Hosteria Las Torres. The idea of the accommodation I had booked was to make my life easier, and after doing Aconcagua, my legs could certainly use a break! Not just that, but down to the recommendations of some people, I had to see the Grey Glacier. Bear in mind that now I would be walking from Los Cuernos, and the boat out of the park actually leaves out of Paine Grande, thats a very long day!!

Day 1: Before I leave Puerto Natales for the park, I find a great English-run cafe with Chai tea and Camembert. Bliss! The bus picks me up from the hostel and we make our way to the national park. The refugio is nice, a bit like a slightly run down hostel, but I guess a bit better than I was expecting. The only problem is that they give you the option when you book the refugios of bringing your own food, or for just 300 pounds more, you can sample the delights of their cooking for 5 days. The only problem is that although you're already staying in these lodges you're not allowed to use the kitchen area. Ridiculous no? AND, on top of this, they don't provide an area for you to cook your own food if you do bring it - no shelter from the rain, not allowed to eat indoors, nothing. I am outraged. And this is just the first night.

Day 2: Woke up early to begin the walk up to the Torres del Paine, the famous granite towers that give the park its name. Very steep for the first hour or so, and reached the el Chileno without any dramas! I ran into the Aussies from the boat here, and round the corner, some friends from Pucón.

By this point I'm already pretty tired, but the views are amazing and it's a beautiful sunny day. I surprisingly find phone signal and someone texts me to get to Starbucks tomorrow for a free coffee...not likely I think!

From here up to the final hour or so of walking was a lovely trail, crossing rivers and streams, and was mainly in the forest. The whole park is stunning. At the last restpoint, I meet some Canadians from Toronto, who take me under their wing for the rest of the day and pretty much quiz me on my life. When lunch comes round, they give me some of their lunch (they had a packed lunch made for them at the hotel they're staying in back in Puerto Natales.

The MOST AMAZING tomato soup and roast beef sandwiches I've had for a LONG time. I feel like I'm in heaven. And the top itself is just amazing - breathtaking. Even though by now the clouds have come in a little, this is unbelievable. This is why people come here, even with the stresses of the refugios!

Quote of the day came from a German guy who literally walked to the top of the Torres, took a photo, and went straight back down. He passed us on our way down both times. When he walked past

the second time we said, "Didn't you just go up?"
To which he replies "I've got a bus to catch."!

We were in stiches for quite a while. Why bother, the point is to take in the views surely?
I'm given a beer at the bottom from the Canadians as a thank you for putting up with them. Luxury!

I get back to the refugio and (naughtily) cook inside the building on my little camp stove. I, of course, get told off. But with no places on-site I'm allowed to cook, what do they expect?!

Day 3: The trip today was Hosteria Las Torres to Los Cuernos. A lovely sunny day, and what was supposed to be a fairly easy walk proved slightly more difficult after suffering mild concussion 1 hour in! Whilst crossing a stream, in my usual clutzy style, I didn't see the branch above my head as I was stepping out. D'oh! It hurt quite a lot, and made progress pretty slow. A day that was supposed to take 3-4 hours ended up taking 6 or 7 hours.



Got to the top of a pretty big steep bit and sat for a while, head pounding, and another group of Aussies came along and 'nursed me' ie. put on a 'band aid'! But they were lovely, and walked with me to the refugio, making up more elaborate stories about how the concussion occured as we went along. The new 'official' story goes along the lines of a condor and a puma attacking me and Nick fighting them off single handedly!

We got to the hostel with the sun still up (just about). I find someone else who's braving cooking, and we find somewhere to cook outside, because this place is even smaller than the place before, and there's nowhere to hide! I have a very cold night's sleep here - "bed" was a mattress on the floor. I had expected to at least have a bed when I organised the tour. If I had wanted to sleep on the floor, I would have chosen the camping option!

Reminders around the park of the Israeli boy who burnt down 1/3 of the park.

 Day 4: Quote of the day: 'you snooze, you win'. We woke up pretty late and thinking the Aussies had gone ahead, I headed for the French valley - absolutely pouring with rain. Got to a campsite along the way and stopped in the sheltered area for a while: my head was hurting anyway and it seemed like a good idea considering the miserable weather. I was contemplating going down when yesterdays Aussies, Nick, Bryce and Ingrid turned up. As we're standing in the shelter, the rain eases and the sun comes out a tiny bit, so we head up the valley. 




We were not disappointed, it was STUNNING! I can't begin to describe the idyll of the lakes and glaciers. The photos don't even do it justice (particularly because of the clouds). We got to the top for lunch and headed back down as the rain started to pick up again. We even managed to catch an avalanche on the way down! 

A great day, and we head back to the refugio. I somehow manage to wangle a free dinner by sitting with the others and some Americans confused the waitress with a vegetarian order. Score! I did NOT want to have to cook outside, so a double win! 

Nick has invited me to his sister's birthday party in BA on the 26th...she lives there, and it certainly will be a good way to get to know the city! I'm already trying to get up to BA for that day anyway. We'll see...

Another very cold nights sleep...not too happy!!

Day 5: Long day! Do the 5 hour walk to Paine Grande in 3 hours. It's shocking to see all the burnt areas of the park. It's quite sad really, but a melancholic kind of beauty.









Bryce said something that made me think: This is quite special, as horrible as it is that 1/3 of the park is burnt; we'll be one of few who see it in this state. 

It's cool to see the new vegetation growing already! The park will be back to normal in about a year probably.

My feet hurt like crazy when I got to the refugio, so walked around only an hour towards Lago Grey. Got to the catamaran, and took the long journey back to Puerto Natales. Hannah and I go to Afrigonia, a Chilean/Kenyan fusion restaurant: Scallop and prawn curry, rice, pisco and dessert for £10! 

 A nice lie in once I'm back in civilisation, good to be in a proper bed. I suddenly realise I left my camera on the bus last night! I had fallen asleep on the bus and woke up suddenly, disorientated. THANKFULLY Chilean people are wonderful and the bus company sent it to me in a taxi. Phew! Stress over, we go somewhere for the BIGGEST sandwiches EVER and then wander by the port before leaving on the bus to el Calafate, Argentina.