Rio de Janeiro Part 1 and Buzios

Arrived in Rio super early in the morning, and was driven to the hostel in the Botafogo district by an IDIOT taxi driver who couldn't speak Spanish OR English. After being dropped off, we walked up the 500 steps to the reception in the hot, humid evening (almost DIED from the heat) and finally got a decent nights sleep after having to coerce the lady manning the desk to let us have a bed. Played with the monkeys on the roof of the hostel at breakfast - lots of fresh fruit here, which makes a change to the bread and dulce de leche I've been having for the last few months. We took a trip to the Engenhao Stadium, where we tried to buy tickets for the football on Wednesday Fluminense vs Boca Juniors, which was made doubly exciting (apparently) by the fact that it was essentially one of Brazil's top teams against the top team in Argentina.
We didn't actually manage to get any tickets while there, our Portuguese skills were nowhere near good enough, but the staff managed to communicate in broken Spanglish/Portuguese that the tickets were not on sale yet. We're seriously going to struggle here if the locals don't even speak SPANISH....Oh well, we meet the lovely Carla (who I met back in Santiago), and she took us out for "traditional" Brazilian food; quite similar to Greek Meze in style, but definitely does not compare in flavour! Great to see Carla again. She used to work at Christ the Redeemer and still has contacts there, so she's arranged to get us in for free...and because of our absolutely lacking Portuguese skills, she offers to organise the football for us too! How lovely.

The next day we take the very early journey to Buzios. A lovely chilled out atmosphere, and we find that the hostel that we've booked is not only ON the beach. But we have an ocean view too! AMAZING!!! Spend ages looking for a beach that will have a view of the sunset, but the water here is too cold to go in. We have sunbathing time and coconut water to help cool off...yummy!! A lovely restaurant along the boulevard for dinner - the first time I've had fish in a very long time - and some delicious wine that I recognised as one from one of the wineries that I visited in Mendoza. YUMMY.

We woke up to the BEST breakfast in South America so far. Lots of fruit and FRESH ORANGE JUICE!! Spent a few hours on the stunning Feredinho beach on the south of the peninsula in Buzios and then back to Rio for some more fun and frolics!!

Buenos Aires Part 2

Back in Buenos Aires, and the Avenue 9 de Julio, the world's largest avenue at 9 lanes long, is closed thanks to the T2000 Grand Prix. We try and check out what the fuss is about, but can't see much, so we have a wander We find the Teatro Colón after about an hour of roaming the streets (apparently I can't read a map). The only seats left at the theatre for this week were box seats to Carmen (the ballet) - so Thiv splashed out! Looking forward to that later on this week!!





Sunday morning is market day!!! So we head to San Telmo, centre for artesan crafts and improvised tango on the streets. Antiques are massive here (think Portobello market on a Sunday), and we stop for been and empanadas (by the way, if you're wondering what empanadas are, think a Spanish take on Cornish pasties and you're pretty much there). A lunchtime tango show ensues and we definitely enjoy our first introduction to the Argentine Tango. Music groups have shows on the streets and we stop and listen for a while. I start to feel a little bit better about my camera being stolen when I see a guy have his wallet nicked - not subtly either - the pickpocket jumped off a motorbike to grab this guy's wallet and then hopped back on and made a quick getaway. Also one of the girls behind the desk told me that she goes through about a phone a month because things are always stolen. OUCH! We manage to score tickets to the famous Cafe Tortoni (thanks Don for the tip) in the evening and treat ourselves to some Mumm. My boyfriend certainly knows how to charm people - even with a language barrier! We end up with second row seats. Score! And WHAT a show!

The next stop was Puerto Madero - we had the intention of visiting the ecological reserve, but ended up just wondering around the area. The area was designed in the C19th, but soon after it was built, the new cargo ships were too big, and so the area became non-functional. Now a gastronomy hub, we thought we would be able to find some good food before heading out in the evening; but everything was so RIDICULOUSLY overpriced that we had to stick to good old TGI Fridays. Now tell me...have you ever heard of a TGI's that doesn't do steak? IN ARGENTINA?! Crazy. We head out to Bomba del Tiempo - it's such a brilliant place, the music is just spectacular. This time there is a famous pianist that they bring on stage - can't believe how well the show worked mixing the classical music with the drums!

So the next day we decide we will do an open air tour of the city (it's pretty big and it's hop-on-hop-off so will probably actually save us money in the long run...) - unfortunately it's so packed we won't be able to get on a bus until 4pm. So we go shopping (one needs suitable clothes for the ballet tomorrow after all...). Once we get the bus, we pass through the districts of Recoleta, Palermo and it's parks, the polo park and a mini Bicester Village. We get back to the hostel in time to catch a free tango lesson, and a live band plays for the rest of the night in the hostel. The Long Island Iced Teas are LETHAL.

The Recoleta district has enough history of it's own, so we take a walking tour to the district with our lovely guide Valeria and she talked us through the history of Buenos Aires, including why 90% of the population is from Italian and Spanish descent (I just not be able to remember why that is anymore). This is the traditionally rich area of Buenos Aires, and after Yellow Fever struck in the poorer neighbourhoods, the rich relocated here, and hired French architects - the area now houses the most expensive hotels and shops in Buenos Aires (and some of the hotels are in the most expensive in the world). The University of Buenos Aires is here - a great University, and free to anyone in the world who wants to study here...if you can put up with the study conditions! Of course, part of the tour included the necessary visit to Recoleta Cemetery to visit the Eva Peron crypt. This place is like a city of dead people. No lies.

Grabbed the hop-on-hop-off through La Boca and Puerto Madero before dashing back to the hostel to get ready for the Teatro Colon. And it was MAGNIFICENT. Not only were we in box seats (a very new experience), but the theatre itself definitely rivals the Royal Opera House in opulence! And the ballet was just BEAUTIFUL. What a day!

In typical tourist style, we head to La Boca for another walking tour with our very knowledgeable guide! This is the part of town that was traditionally used by immigrants to set up shop, being on the coast. These people would have to find somewhere to work and live within 3 days of arriving otherwise they would be kicked out. How awful! As a result, the oldest neighbourhoods have houses made up of leftover wood and corrugated metal and painted with leftover paint from the boats, which is way La Boca is famed for its bright colours . The tour included a visit to La Bombonera stadium, home of Boca Juniors football team. Thiv got so excited about the Diego Maradona memorabilia! In the evening we went to a show called the Tango Complejo, the wine and dinner was AMAZING, but the lesson was terrrible, and the show itself, although not as good as Cafe Tortoni, was pretty interesting because it took us through the history of the Tango in Argentina. Originally a macho dance performed between men to win the best "ladies of the night", then a walk betwen a guy and a girl dating and finally in the 40s it became the sexy dance we know today.

Easter Weekend and the markets are open around town, and we came away with some purchases, before heading to the Malba Modern Art museum, where we both realised we hate modern art. Onwards to the beautiful Japanese gardens, where we got ourselves all excited about the best sushi in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately due to time restraints and the queue for sushi, we had to make do with hamburgers instead! Running late for the airport in the end, and although we didn't quite need a callout, we were still the last people on the plane! WHAT A PLANE! I always want to fly Emirates from now on! There was an actual MENU, comfy seats, a HUGE selection of films and I have never been so excited by face towels in my whole life. We even had a polaroid snap for us to take away with us. I need shares in this airline. OFF TO RIO!!!!!!

Buenos Aires part 1 and La Porteña

So, Buenos Aires. After a 20 hour bus journey, I reach Buenos Aires city. I get a cab to the hostel and the nice driver gives me a mini-tour of the city and warns me that now is not a good time to be English (the anniversary of the Falklands war is coming up). Once settled in, I head to Vila Crespo (a very non-touristy part of town) to meet up with Nick (from Torres del Paine) and his sister, whose birthday it was. After an "asado" which was actually more like a BBQ, we headed to Bomba del Tiempo, a 14-piece improvisational drumming sensation! It was BRILLIANT.

The next morning, I take a very early cab to the airport with my driver Eugenio to surprise Thiv at the airport. His flight was delayed by almost an hour, but I did finally make contact and somehow still managed to surprise Thiv even though I thought I had made it far too obvious (thanks Mum!). We checked into a small "trendy" hotel in Palermo, the shopping district, and spend the afternoon walking through the parks. We go for steak - unfortunately they're cooked to oblivion (helpful pointer, if you're in Argentina, always ask for your steak to be done one or two grades below your usual preference...unless you like the taste of charcoal of course). The mashed pumpkin sure made up for it though, that bit and the wine was delicious!!

Next day, a fun-filled shopping day in Palermo Viejo (the old part of town), having a nose around at the leather goods here, much cheaper than at home in the UK. Will definitely have a harder look when we get back from our stay in the estancia. We even have a look at some fairly cheap leather jackets up in the leather district. We save it for another day, we're so shopped-out we head for dinner at the famous La Cabrera, where it's apparently common to wait for up to 2 hours outside (with free champagne while we waited so we weren't too fussed). Stomachs were definitely gurgling when we were finally seated at midnight; mine was overdone (standard Argentinan cooking), although the side dishes that came out with it were pretty AWESOME!! So many to choose from!

So next we head from Palermo to San Antonio de Areco, where we're staying at an estancia (ranch) for a few days. Fate had another idea for our morning. Magical pickpockets on the Buenos Aires tube system manage to separate me and Thiv and stole my camera. And I hadn't backed them up! That will teach me for next time. At least it wasn't the passports. A fun trip to the police station to try and describe what happened (impressively I managed to do this in Spanish!) and then finally managed to get the bus to the estancia La Porteña and we make the final horse ride of the day. The rooms are so picturesque, exactly what I imagined.

The birds are so noisy here that we wouldn't have been able to have a lie in even if we wanted to. A great sunny day though so we chill out by the pool for the morning. Then empanadas and wine in hand we walked through the grounds and were treated to an asado for lunch. I have never seen people take meat so seriously! After the lunch, we had the staff at the estancia serenade us with traditional folk songs and teach us some traditional dancing, before the gauchos race and give a demonstration of how they used to traditionally propose to women of the estancias. They basically try to loop a ring suspended by a hook onto a branch and then present this ring to the girl of their choice. Pretty funny stuff. The second ride of the day was somewhat eventful. Seriously, the first time we're allowed to go faster than a walk, the gaucho hadn't put the saddle on properly, and it came off as soon as my horse got going! Ow!

By the next day we're ready to get back to the civilised world of Buenos Aires. We have a friendly visitor at breakfast and then we head off ready to explore the real Buenos Aires. Can't wait!!!

Argentina's Patagonia...

So I arrive in El Calafate late and climb a BEAST of a hill to reach the hostel, I'm being naughty and trying to surprise Thiv at the airport. So hard not to tell him the truth, but will be TOTALLY worth it when I see his face!!

A pretty early start for the Perito Moreno glacier trip, but was totally worth it. Absolutely breathtaking - it's on of the vey few glaciers in the world that is ACTALLY growing in size. It recdes too and we were in luck because we could actually hear the CRACK just before watching massive chunks of ice falling in the water! Spent about 4 hours walking around the park seeing this enormous glacier from different angles. I even managed to catch a photo of the ice falling in the water! Crazy!

After the trip I head to El Chaltén, home of the Fitzroy formation. Come across some English girls at the bus terminal and we proceed to find ourselves a hostel. After at least half an hour of looking, we're grateful to find somewhere, but I think we should have been alerted to the fact that this wasn't the best hostel in the world by a) the Israeli girls complaining that no-one had cleaned their rooms and b) money was asked for up front before we had even seen the room. My WORD that place was disgusting! We cooked dinner in an absolutely fly-infested kitchen, and the room was worse...still so many flies, but the room stank of gas, the bathroom looked like it had never been cleaned and I'm not convinced the sheets are clean! Definitely a night for the sleeping bag liner.

Need to get the hell out of that hostel, so walk around town until we find one thats clean. Afterwards, we grab breakfast and coffee at a place that has WiFi and Thiv gives me stick for not being in contact...if only he knew how hard I was trying to get to the airport on time!! Ironic really! Take a hike up to the Fitzroy formation for 6 hours. It's stunning, although I think I still prefer Torres del Paine. This is the Argentinian version. A 6 hour walk in total and WOW my legs hate me; I don't think I'll be trekking again for a while! Went to a brewery for beer and pizza. Definitely deserved after the day we had!

The next day I realise that if I'm going to meet Thiv at the airport, I have to go back to go forward, so I'm booked on a bus back to El Calafate (and to make up for the inconvenience they sort me for a few nights accommodation too). I head to the Viedma glacier, which I think is the largest in South America, and pay for an excursion which I take to be ice climbing, but just turned out to be a trip on a boat TO the glacier, which was a little disappointing and a bit of a waste, but I realise that I couldn't have spent the time on a longer trip anyway - especially when it turns out there's a power cut in el Chaltén when I get back and I have no access to the confirmation email about the buses! It comes back on just in time, and luckily everything is fine. Plus points of being female out here; everyone tries to go out of their way to help you...I fluttered my eyelashes a bit too I guess...but I seemed to remember the previous bus stopping before the bus station on the way to el Calafate before so I thought I would try and ask the bus driver. At first the answer was "I can't, I'm not allowed", then at the terminal offered to take me a few blocks closer, until finally he just gave me a lift to the hostel! What a guy! The hostel is LUXURY...I get a 4 bed dorm to myself WITH A TV!!! I couldn't believe my luck. And the bathroom is clean. Bliss.

The next few days is mainly admin and travelling to Bariloche - it's a 28 hour bus journey, made a lot better by movies. This is pretty much the Israeli bus - who knew they travelled so much?! Some very stodgy food too, makes me appreciate even the worst plane food. I do meet some very cool people on the bus who I had also bumped into in El Calafate and El Chaltén and we hit up some martinis and Mexican food. So tasty...! The next day Google decides it's the day to lock me out of my email. What a nightmare - can't they see that I'm travelling round South America and therefore another log in from a place in Argentina is far from odd?! Anyway, ignoring that, I go on the Circuito Chico circuit in Bariloche and visit more lakes and more mountains. The view from the top of Cerro Campanero is supposed to be number 7 in the world according to National Geographic. I'm not so sure. I'm a bit indifferent to lakes and mountains now and am DYING to see a city or the beach.

Lots of other beautiful views, and our final stop is Hotel Llao llao, which means super sweet in some native language after the mushrooms that grow in this region. The only 5 star hotel in Patagonia, it's an impressive sight.

I meet up with the guys from yesterday and we go horse-riding in the area of Cerro Campanero, and whilst at the beginning I wasn't sure if my horse was just going to keel over and die, by the end the horse was GALLOPING. So much fun. We all head out afterwards for the BEST steak I've had in Argentina and some pretty good wine too - mmmmm - and then out to an "Irish Pub", which didn't even sell Guiness...you get the picture...

Now, Bariloche is particularly known for it's chocolate, so it would be incredibly rude not to visit one of the shops/cafes that sells it right? It's coming up to Easter, so the place is FULL of Easter eggs, looks pretty tasty, so grab a little box and then off I go on the 20 hour bus journey to Buenos Aires.

Can't Wait.

Torres del Paine National Park

So now I will relay to you the disaster that was the Torres del Paine trip - only organisational mind, the place itself is amazing. Also, I have finally worked out how to put pictures in this thing, so enjoy!

The trip I was supposed to take was a 5 day, 4 night trek through the "W" section of the park, stopping at 4 different "Refugios" along the way (shown in the picture above). Now due to an Israeli boy setting up his own camp a few months ago and burning down a third of the national park, one of the Refugios, Paine Grande had now been sold to another company, meaning that the last 2 nights would both be spent at Los Cuernos. Additionally, although the booking was made in October last year, they hadn't actually allocated the accommodation to me, so the Refugio Chileno was booked out, meaning 2 nights in the Hosteria Las Torres. The idea of the accommodation I had booked was to make my life easier, and after doing Aconcagua, my legs could certainly use a break! Not just that, but down to the recommendations of some people, I had to see the Grey Glacier. Bear in mind that now I would be walking from Los Cuernos, and the boat out of the park actually leaves out of Paine Grande, thats a very long day!!

Day 1: Before I leave Puerto Natales for the park, I find a great English-run cafe with Chai tea and Camembert. Bliss! The bus picks me up from the hostel and we make our way to the national park. The refugio is nice, a bit like a slightly run down hostel, but I guess a bit better than I was expecting. The only problem is that they give you the option when you book the refugios of bringing your own food, or for just 300 pounds more, you can sample the delights of their cooking for 5 days. The only problem is that although you're already staying in these lodges you're not allowed to use the kitchen area. Ridiculous no? AND, on top of this, they don't provide an area for you to cook your own food if you do bring it - no shelter from the rain, not allowed to eat indoors, nothing. I am outraged. And this is just the first night.

Day 2: Woke up early to begin the walk up to the Torres del Paine, the famous granite towers that give the park its name. Very steep for the first hour or so, and reached the el Chileno without any dramas! I ran into the Aussies from the boat here, and round the corner, some friends from Pucón.

By this point I'm already pretty tired, but the views are amazing and it's a beautiful sunny day. I surprisingly find phone signal and someone texts me to get to Starbucks tomorrow for a free coffee...not likely I think!

From here up to the final hour or so of walking was a lovely trail, crossing rivers and streams, and was mainly in the forest. The whole park is stunning. At the last restpoint, I meet some Canadians from Toronto, who take me under their wing for the rest of the day and pretty much quiz me on my life. When lunch comes round, they give me some of their lunch (they had a packed lunch made for them at the hotel they're staying in back in Puerto Natales.

The MOST AMAZING tomato soup and roast beef sandwiches I've had for a LONG time. I feel like I'm in heaven. And the top itself is just amazing - breathtaking. Even though by now the clouds have come in a little, this is unbelievable. This is why people come here, even with the stresses of the refugios!

Quote of the day came from a German guy who literally walked to the top of the Torres, took a photo, and went straight back down. He passed us on our way down both times. When he walked past

the second time we said, "Didn't you just go up?"
To which he replies "I've got a bus to catch."!

We were in stiches for quite a while. Why bother, the point is to take in the views surely?
I'm given a beer at the bottom from the Canadians as a thank you for putting up with them. Luxury!

I get back to the refugio and (naughtily) cook inside the building on my little camp stove. I, of course, get told off. But with no places on-site I'm allowed to cook, what do they expect?!

Day 3: The trip today was Hosteria Las Torres to Los Cuernos. A lovely sunny day, and what was supposed to be a fairly easy walk proved slightly more difficult after suffering mild concussion 1 hour in! Whilst crossing a stream, in my usual clutzy style, I didn't see the branch above my head as I was stepping out. D'oh! It hurt quite a lot, and made progress pretty slow. A day that was supposed to take 3-4 hours ended up taking 6 or 7 hours.



Got to the top of a pretty big steep bit and sat for a while, head pounding, and another group of Aussies came along and 'nursed me' ie. put on a 'band aid'! But they were lovely, and walked with me to the refugio, making up more elaborate stories about how the concussion occured as we went along. The new 'official' story goes along the lines of a condor and a puma attacking me and Nick fighting them off single handedly!

We got to the hostel with the sun still up (just about). I find someone else who's braving cooking, and we find somewhere to cook outside, because this place is even smaller than the place before, and there's nowhere to hide! I have a very cold night's sleep here - "bed" was a mattress on the floor. I had expected to at least have a bed when I organised the tour. If I had wanted to sleep on the floor, I would have chosen the camping option!

Reminders around the park of the Israeli boy who burnt down 1/3 of the park.

 Day 4: Quote of the day: 'you snooze, you win'. We woke up pretty late and thinking the Aussies had gone ahead, I headed for the French valley - absolutely pouring with rain. Got to a campsite along the way and stopped in the sheltered area for a while: my head was hurting anyway and it seemed like a good idea considering the miserable weather. I was contemplating going down when yesterdays Aussies, Nick, Bryce and Ingrid turned up. As we're standing in the shelter, the rain eases and the sun comes out a tiny bit, so we head up the valley. 




We were not disappointed, it was STUNNING! I can't begin to describe the idyll of the lakes and glaciers. The photos don't even do it justice (particularly because of the clouds). We got to the top for lunch and headed back down as the rain started to pick up again. We even managed to catch an avalanche on the way down! 

A great day, and we head back to the refugio. I somehow manage to wangle a free dinner by sitting with the others and some Americans confused the waitress with a vegetarian order. Score! I did NOT want to have to cook outside, so a double win! 

Nick has invited me to his sister's birthday party in BA on the 26th...she lives there, and it certainly will be a good way to get to know the city! I'm already trying to get up to BA for that day anyway. We'll see...

Another very cold nights sleep...not too happy!!

Day 5: Long day! Do the 5 hour walk to Paine Grande in 3 hours. It's shocking to see all the burnt areas of the park. It's quite sad really, but a melancholic kind of beauty.









Bryce said something that made me think: This is quite special, as horrible as it is that 1/3 of the park is burnt; we'll be one of few who see it in this state. 

It's cool to see the new vegetation growing already! The park will be back to normal in about a year probably.

My feet hurt like crazy when I got to the refugio, so walked around only an hour towards Lago Grey. Got to the catamaran, and took the long journey back to Puerto Natales. Hannah and I go to Afrigonia, a Chilean/Kenyan fusion restaurant: Scallop and prawn curry, rice, pisco and dessert for £10! 

 A nice lie in once I'm back in civilisation, good to be in a proper bed. I suddenly realise I left my camera on the bus last night! I had fallen asleep on the bus and woke up suddenly, disorientated. THANKFULLY Chilean people are wonderful and the bus company sent it to me in a taxi. Phew! Stress over, we go somewhere for the BIGGEST sandwiches EVER and then wander by the port before leaving on the bus to el Calafate, Argentina.

The Navimag: Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales.

Major catch up time.

So I leave Ancud at stupid-o'-clock in the morning and sleep all the way to Puerto Montt, a fairly dreary and drab city (so glad I made the choice not to stay here). "Boarding time" is between 9:30 and 11:30, but in true South American fashion the boarding time isn't actually until 14:30. Luckily I bump into the Dutch girls from Ancud, and we stop to buy some alpaca hats (glaciers are cold don't you know) and grab some alcohol from the local supermarket to keep us going on the boat (only an overpriced bar on-board). The carrier bags are akin to the new super-thin-can't-use-them-for-carrying-a-pint-of-milk-bags Tesco are currently demo-ing. So when the bag-packer puts two bottles of wine in one of these bags, it's bad news. Within 1m of the till, the bag breaks and a 1.5L bottle of wine comes crashing to the floor. A very nice old man starts yelling that it's the boy's fault, and soon we're being profusely apologised to by management and presented with new bottles of wine. Phew!

With that fiasco over with we head back and finally board the boat. The bunk beds are rather squashed looking, and hit my head sitting down on the bed when I first arrive. Not a good start. On the top deck, we find a giant chessboard, and while waiting for the boat to leave, I find myself watching a couple of Australians play. Well, one was getting a thrashing. His ass was getting handed to him, so I offered a few suggestions and suddenly I'm an "expert" (with my VERY rusty chess skills...) and before I know it I'm on the team! The boys are pretty cool and the real chess champion comes along and wipes the floor with everyone.

Soon afterwards, we are introduced to every single member of staff on board (no word of a lie) and we were expected to clap for the introduction of each person. Personally, I thought it was a little over the top considering they hadn't done anything yet. Maybe it would have been due if we had docked at the other end safely! Safety briefing over, we watch a National Geographic documentary on Patagonian wildlife. A sign of things to come.

Breakfast is at 8am. Not cool. Don't people know that sleep is a cherished past-time? We spend most of the next few days on the lookout for whales and dolphins, and we do catch a glimpse of some dolphins swimming alongside the boat. I find out these guys are also headed to Torres del Paine (along with pretty much the rest of the boat, there isn't that much to do in Puerto Natales). Due to the poor visibility (it had started to rain by this point), the captain decided to take a detour from the usual route and take us past an glacier called the Iceberg glacier, which is a lot wider, but not as high as the other glaciers we would have passed. It was breath-taking. The lead-up was a series of small ice-bergs (there were lots of people re-enacting Titanic), and the glacier itself was just SO BLUE. It was unbelievable.

We were given the opportunity to dis-embark for an hour at Puerto Eden, a town of 250 people, and while the option was tempting after 3 days on a boat, the heaven's decided to open, and I chose (wisely) that I wouldn't go. Just as well, because everyone who went looked so miserable when they came back! The entertainment on the final night on the boat is Bingo and Fiesta. It was good to break up the tedium anyway!

We arrive into port the next day, and on the approach we see more ice-capped peaks, which gets us all excited to get into the Torres del Paine national park. We spend the evening picking up last minute items and food for the trek, and then go for the unhealthiest meal imaginable: Pizza with tonnes of cheese, and a plate of chips, chicken bacon and EVEN more cheese. Thank goodness we're going to work it off the next few days!

Puerto Varas and Ancud, Chiloe

Now that I'm getting seriously behind on the blog posts, I think it's time that I did some serious updating!!

So arrival in Puerto Varas, looks pretty dodgy at first. So my experience in Puerto Varas wasn't amazing. A quaint town and probably what I needed after the frivolities of the previous  places. I head up to the viewpoint of town, Cerro Phillippi, but it was pouring down with rain; most of my time is taken up the next couple of days by chilling out on the lake and visiting the local handicrafts markets. So, bored of Puerto Varas, I head to Frutillar, a very quaint German town (literally, there were "kuchenladen"s and everything). It's pretty stunning, on the East side of Lake Llaniquehue, which Puerto Varas borders too. It's directly in front of the Orsorno volcano, and the views are pretty stunning. Is it bad that the highlight of my trip here is the toilets I found in the theatre there?? Well, it was, and while I was there, I went to a free photography exhibition on the famous people of Chile, which was pretty cool, and I definitely looked the part walking around with my DSLR. Got back to Varas in time to catch a tour to the Osorno volcano. I didn't climb it this time. Phew! No, 79 people died in the last 9 months from trying to climb the volcano, so it's off limits. Thank goodness, I don't think my legs would be able to cope! The tour was interesting - 4 Brazilians and myself meant that the tour wasn't even given in Spanish. It's in Portuguese. Great. Don't understand a thing, and after most of the talking the guide finally asks me if I understood anything and repeats what he can be bothered to say in English. Turns out the reason why so many people died climbing the volcano (which is only 2,500m) is because a neighbouring volcano (I've forgotten the name) became active and started spewing ash, much like the Iceland disaster a little while back. This not only impaired visibility, but weakened the ice, so that when people were trekking over what looked like a flat glacier, there were cravasses under some of the sections of ice with only thin sheets of ice over the top, that were giving way when people were climbing up. Probably a good thing I gave it a miss then.

I get a few recommendations while I'm here about a place called Ancud, in Chiloe, an island about half an hour from the mainland, and I change up my schedule to leave Puerto Varas early and skip over to Puerto Montt (which is a dive, so I'm pretty glad I'm not sticking around). But I make a BIG mistake on the second bus, I fall asleep and don't really pay attention to where we are. Suddenly I wake up as we leave what looks to be Ancud bus station (turns out there are 3, easy mistake). I get out of the bus and trudge the now 30 minutes back to the bus station, and then realise I'm at the wrong bus terminal to get to the hostel I've booked. Oops. I ask a few people how far it is to walk. One guy tells me that it's really far and offers me a lift. Unfortunately for me, he's a taxi driver, and so of course he's trying to take me for a ride. I'm so tired and fed up by this point that I arrange a price and get to the hostel just fine. The hostel is amazing, comfy beds, nice showers.

Now Ancud is a pretty town. All the churches in Ancud, and the other city, Castro, are UNESCO world heritage sites. I walk to the fort and have a look around (must  learn more about Chilean history) and the markets. The fish market there was pretty cool, and one of the fishmongers was cutting up some stone-looking sea creature called piura (apparently translates as sea-squirt, but I have no idea what that means either), and I tried some (raw) and it was an interesting strong smoky flavour. Strange. The owner of the hostel, Claudio, is pretty cool and he and his friend Francisco invited me in for beer and cooked me pasta. Awesome. The next morning, I get why people recommended this hostel. There are SCRAMBLED EGGS for breakfast. Sounds ridiculous to be this excited by scrambled eggs, but it's the little things..! Claudio arranged a tour of the north part of the island, and we went to see the penguins!! Everyone is into birds here, even Claudio had a book on birds of Chile in his car - and we spotted a Kingfisher before arriving at the beach. The penguin tour is a little tour around some of the islands and we learn that penguins have a gland in their mouths that pumps out the salt enabling them to drink sea water. Pretty cool! Have a dodgy empanada and head to the rocky beach of Petrohue. Stunning. I find out the Dutch girls on our tour are coming on the Navimag, the boat that leaves from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. So after much alcohol consupmtion and some pretty tasty hot dogs, I hit the sack. Drinking probably wasn't the best idea the day before a long boat trip....

Pucón

I know, I know, It's been a while. Sorry.

After sleeping literally all the way from Santiago, I wake up to a very dozy village. It's cute. Some bad indications of it having rained recently, but overall a quaint little town. It functions in the winter as a ski resort, and in the summer as the centre of adventure holidays (white-water rafting, canyoning, skydiving, you name it). After a quick orientation I find the hostel I booked because, honestly you can't trust the timekeeping in this place at all, and after the incident in Santiago...well, I don't want that to happen again now do I??

After a very thorough introduction to what can be done in Pucón from Peter, the owner of the hostel, I head to Lake Carbuga, about a 40 minute bus ride from town. There is a reason why they call this the lake district after all. We wander to the beach on the lake (half black sand, half white sand, don't you know), new Aussie friend in tow, and it really is stunning. Although some very strange rocks carved into animals on the beach. We also check out the Ojos de Carhue waterfalls nearby. Mesmerising. The walk there took around an hour and you could have easily told me I was somewhere in the Swiss Alps with all the wooden cabins. An early night in preparation for the volcano I've decided to climb tomorrow. Yes. I am ACTUALLY crazy.

Now climbing Villarica volcano is THE thing to do if you're travelling in Pucón. Everyone recommends it. In fact some people only go to Pucón with the purpose of climbing this flipping thing. Safe to say, it wasn't as all that as these people think. We're at the tour operators office at 6:45 (we were supposed to be there at half past, but this is South America darling, no-one's on time). There is a giant frenzy of people being given kit that doesn't fit left, right and centre. Now, I have most of the gear they are trying to give us, but they won't have me using my own gear. They did thankfully give way on the boots (that would have just been gross and uncomfortable). They insist on the jackets and trousers to identify us as customers as that tour group. Which is just as well really because once we got up to the starting point there were about 200 people there all in varying brightly coloured jackets from the different tour companies. I will hasten to add that the journey to the volcano didn't come without it's own little drama. Within 10 seconds of leaving the office there's a car crash. Shouting and kicking pursues. We all pile into another car and leave one of the guides to deal with the mess - and the new driver of our car drives like an absolute maniac.

So. We're at the starting point at the bottom of the chairlift. The guides are introduced as Richards I and II, and Nicos I and II. Easy. We're given the option to take this up 400m to where the real walking begins. Do I take it? No, of course not. I've climbed Aconcagua (and in true Chrissi fashion, I left my moneybelt locked up in the locker at the hostel). It's steep, and a pretty nice walk, but Richard II sets a RAPID pace. My legs actually hate me. So I take it easy and amble up instead of keeping the ridiculous pace, and Richard II comes round to my way of thinking after a stubborn half an hour. The ascent is lovely from the top of the chairlift, and the views of the lakes are amazing. Some of the others go ahead, and eventually, it ends up being me and 2 Israeli girls (who are walking super slow).

Now, at 6:30, the sky was beautiful. No clouds. But as a "seasoned" mountaineer now, I notice some black clouds and speak to Richard II. We're just approaching the final ascent for summit.
Me: "Those clouds look pretty ominous"
Richard II (casual): "Yeah, they'll be here in about 30 minutes, maybe a little more."
Me: "Really?? How long will it take us to get to the top from here?"
Richard II (still casual): "About an hour."

I insisted on going down. There was no way I wanted to be caught in those clouds. In any case, Richard II lied. The rain was on us in 10 minutes. And those "waterproof" jackets and trousers supplied were most definitely not waterproof. We were lucky enough to have gone down early enough to not have our visibility affected by the clouds (others did), but we were soaked by the time we were back down to the top of the chairlift. To make matters worse, we had to wait in the freezing cold for more people to come down because about half of the people who were climbing had to come down with one guide.

Why? I hear you ask. Well, the others didn't turn back. They had the option, but apparently it didn't sound as if the guides were being serious. They made it to the top of the volcano, and by that time the cloud had come in, it was hailing hard and the winds were roaring at 70km/hour. There were several accidents. 3 people went to hospital, 1 guy was seen to fall into a cravasse and 1 guy went missing (later also found in a cravasse).

The mountain wasn´t safe to climb by any means and still trying to work out why they continued when they knew the weather was turning. Anyway, we all peg it down the rest of the mountain desperate to get away from the volcano and dry off. Just a shame that there was no hot water in the hostel.

So the next day - what do you think? A day of rest? Not on your nelly. I wasn't up pretty early, I admit, but I did choose that day to go white water rafting. Grade 4 rapids. SO MUCH FUN. Had a smile plastered to my face the whole way down. Totally worth it unlike that volcano. I'm not bitter.

We had an epic night on the town after my first sample of actual Chilean food. Kind of like a Chilean take on a mousakka, but very nice. I'll spare you the details of the night out I had (my parents read this after all), but after the stresses of the day before we treated ourselves very well! And I woke up with a stinker of a hangover. Best hangover cure: a nap on the beach (there was another lake a few blocks from the hostel), honey melon fresh juice, and the realisation that you only have 20 minutes to peg it back across town to get on the bus. It was late. But I wave goodbye to Pucón and the terrors of the volcano and arrive in Puerto Varas for a bit of rest and relaxation.

Santiago

I headed to Santiago the same evening as the others left Mendoza. Spent most of the day wondering around town trying to find an "I climbed Aconcagua" t-shirt. Left Santiago at the 22:30 bus. Someone needs to remind me that I NEVER want to cross a border again by night. It was just a nightmare. We were woken up at 2am at border control for passport checks. There were a massive line of night buses each with 40 passengers, and only 3 people checking passports. To make matters worse, child kidnapping is a massive problem in Argentina, so any child who went through took so long! 2 hours pass. YES! We can get back on the bus!! For 10 minutes, until they pile us all out again and file us into another building, take all of the bags off the bus and pass them through a conveyor similar to an airport and had a lecture on the importance of not bringing in food products into Chile. We don't care. It's 4am. We just want to shut you up and go to sleep. Lecture over and bags checked, we all load back into the bus, and go straight back to sleep. Bliss.

I arrive in Los Héroes at 6:30am and head to the Che Lagarto hostel, where I've been recommended by some friends in the UK. The place is deserted. I ring the doorbell over and over again. Nothing. Great. This lady who I recognise from the bus journey comes up to me and asks me if I'm OK. I reply in my very broken Spanish (you'll be glad to hear it's much better now) that I'm looking for the Che Lagarto hostel, but I'd rung and no one was in. She asks a couple of passers-by where this hostel is, and they all point us to the deserted building. After many more frustrating conversations with passers-by and a receptionist in a very expensive looking hotel, she introduces herself as Monica and invites me back to her place. Well, I say invites. It was more of a statement. She doesn't want me hanging around that part of town while it's dark and I don't know my way round. That's very nice. I was a bit cautious. But in about the next 10 minutes, I realise that she's just lovely and that she's a bit lonely after I think she said she was widowed. She gives me the double bed room (all her things are in her son's room) and tells me to relax and if I want anything. We both go to bed for a few hours, and she wakes me up at about 10 to tell me she's nipping out and she writes down her mobile number, her address and the name of the nearest Metro station. "Relax, help yourself to whatever's in the fridge for some breakfast, have a shower, I'll be back soon".

So nice. I, feeling so happy to be being looked after call the hostel and get their real address and fall back asleep. Turns out they moved 2 years ago after the earthquake in 2010. And this guidebook is updated every year. Pah. I wake up and gather up my things and write Monica a note to thank her for taking me in. Just as I'm leaving, she walks back in with some man in tow and asks me if I had any breakfast. Since I haven't, she insists on me having either a tea or coffee, and explains that she's just bought a car off the guy who she introduces me to (but I can't remember his name). She tells me to put down my bags and to tell me what the situation is with the hostel, and after explaining the situation, she asks for the new address and tells me she'll give me a lift to try out the car!! So sweet. I honestly don't know what I would have done without her. She's my South American heroine.

As I get out of the car outside the real hostel, she tells me to call her anytime while in Santiago if I have any problems. I say "Thank you" for the millionth time and head into the hostel and check into one of the dorms. After the relative luxury of the hotel in Mendoza this is a little bit...worse for wear but functional. The staff are friendly and within about 10 minutes of settling down in my room I meet a Brazilian girl from Rio, Carla, whose English is brilliant, and she's just the sweetest. She gives me advice on where to go in Santiago and heads off.

I realise that I pack like a girl and that I'm going to have to send some stuff home (sorry Mum). The big pack is just too heavy. Once I've sorted the clothes that I'm going to send back home, I head out and walk around town and find the Museum of National History, which shows artifacts from pre-colonial era through to the early 20th century. Very interesting. I get back to the hostel to find a British couple playing pool. We have a super yummy "asado" (Chilean/Argentine BBQ) with as much wine as we could drink...they clearly underestimated the amount that we can drink! The Santiago nightlife is pretty cool, mainly European music with a few Brazilian hits. The clubs don't open until 2, so staying up for breakfast was pretty much the only option we had when we got back to the hostel (we definitely wouldn't have woken up in time).

As it happened, I barely woke up in time to get to my bike tour round Santiago. It was led by an ex-history teacher from New York, and everyone on the tour was from the US. But in all fairness, the tour was very interesting, and who knew how much political history there was in Santiago?? The dictatorship vs democracy, Allende vs Pinochet, civil war literary cafés. We then stopped for the BEST ICE CREAM EVER. Yum.

We headed to Viña del Mar for a few days, we were longing to see the sea with the 35ºC that we had been experiencing. We managed to make it there in time for the international music festival, which was a South American version of Eurovision, and the streets and beaches were PACKED. There's a clock made of FLOWERS here, which is pretty cool. The main attraction though is the Casino, and of course we went in and placed our bets. Quite a swanky place, and we had a good time, if stressed at the amount I was losing (at one point). I had a LEGEND sitting next to me who kept looking over my shoulder and helping me out by betting on my cards. I came out with what I went in though, so I'm pretty happy at that outcome!

Before heading back to Santiago, we spent the day in Valparaíso, a nearby port town. We didn't plan this bit very well, we turned up on the Monday, the only day of the week when everything is shut! But we went up some of the cable cars to the top of the hills and walked down after seeing the beautiful views from the top. There's a massive street art culture here, and we found ourselves mainly taking photos of the Banksy-style art on the walls. Some of it was really clever, other bits just strange.

We've discovered it is so difficult to get a Chilean meal around here. Italian? Check. Mexican? Check. American (KFC, McD's, Burger King)? Check. Chilean? Not one place. I've enjoyed Santiago, but it's time to move on now, heading further south to the Lake District. Next stop Pucón. Over and out.

PS. Sorry for the essay.

Mendoza

I'm very aware it's been a while since my last post. In my defence it's pretty hard to find computers that are free to do this on, so I'm going to have a mass splurge.

The rest of my stay in Mendoza was amazing with much steak eating, sunbathing and swimming in the hotel's very own pool. Luxury!! We were in Mendoza for the beginning of the wine festival, which celebrates the beginning of the wine harvest season, and in light of this we thought it would just be RUDE not to go on a wine tour. This was 10 pesos (1.50 GBP) for a tour of 2 wineries and an olive oil factory. You would never have guessed, but petrol is actually the main export from this area, and all we could see for ages were the pumps. We're sitting in this mini-bus with Argentians who are on their summer holidays, thinking "are we on the right tour??". We eventually rock up at Navarro Correas, which is owned by the conglomerate Diageo. It's a beautiful little place, and the lady leading the tour does very well at describing the details of the fermentation process in both Spanish and English. Of course, we're only REALLY there for one thing. We pile our way onto the sofas in the tasting room, and she takes us through the process for looking like a wine connoisseur, the swirling, the colours to look for and the "legs" of the wine. Brilliant. And then the drinking begins. Here we try a Bonarda and a Sauvignon Blanc (not that Argentines are particularly reknowned for their white wine). We obviously decline the use of the spitting bucket and move on to the olive oil "boutique" factory. This was probably in our best interests for soaking purposes after consuming the best part of 3 bottles of wine between the 5 of us.

The olive oil process is described to us and the levels of acidity that determine the differences between olive oil, virgin, and extra virgin olive oil. Very interesting. We're told that the bits that aren't used to make the oil are used to make pastes, exfoliants and creams, which we try (the boys more reluctantly than I). Then comes the trying and actually, these olive oils were amazingly tasty, infused with basil, oregano, and some even with tomato (I don't know how). After devouring the bread, we hopped back in the minibus to go to our final destination, Cacas don Arturo, a boutique winery that uses only naturally occuring processes to produce their wine (no sulphites = no hangover). The boys are instantly infatuated with the Canadian/Argentinan girl who takes us round, and she tells us the ins and outs of this winery, most of the differences being that the process takes longer because they don't add anything to speed up the process. The wines here are absolutely mind-blowingly delicious. We bought lots between us, and drank most of them back at the pool over the next few days in Mendoza.

We spent the next few nights eating and drinking very well, but there was one main evening that we decided to "hit the town". Now, these guys I've been climbing the mountain with are great, but not really my "usual crowd" (ages 35+). In all fairness they came back later than I did, but I HAVE to tell you about the dancing that went on in this club that we went to. We went in there for a drink as this place had appeared to be a lively bar, but within an hour of being there, all the tables were cleared away and this group of drummers got on the stage at the front and started playing, and these dancers came out of nowhere and started dancing. The only thing that I would be able to describe it as is something akin to full-moon party dancing in Tanzania. It was all glow paint and booty shaking the rest of the night!! A great laugh.

We had 5 days in Mendoza and then the boys all left to return to the UK, I had such a great time with this lot, but it's just the beginning of by big adventure!!

Pharmacy

So I was going to the Pharmacy to pick up some after-sun for the triangle-shaped burn on my face (don't ask), and paid at the counter, like normal people do, and I was given ASPIRIN as change. VERY strange....

Aconcagua

So, I'm very aware that I haven't been keeping this blog very up-to-date over the last few weeks so I'm going to hit you all with a massive update.

I landed safely in Mendoza, Argentina, after MANY hours delay. Got to the hotel, and being the first to arrive from the group, had some problems checking in - didn't seem to be expecting us!! It all sorted itself out after a few phone calls to the UK, and I finally got a room. Checked my emails to find I had an interview for a PhD WOOOOOO. On the 10th February, while I'm going to be halfway up a frigging mountain. GREAT.

That aside, I met all the guys I'll be climbing with - interesting. 3 hairy (lovely) Scotsmen, a Welsh guy and some Brits. 10 in total, all men, ages between 28 - 52ish. Dave, AKA the Hobbit will be my tentmate for the climb, lucky guy....

So after faffing picking up some last minute kit, we head the 3 hour drive up to Penitentes and drop off our big bags to be carried up by Mules to Base Camp. Then check in with the Park and the epic walk begins.

Beautiful place, these mountains are so MASSIVE, I feel so insignificant and it's amazing to think that we're walking on what used to be at the bottom of the sea. Dinner on the first night at Confluencia (3,400m) was an AMAZING steak, wasn't expected, and unfortunately, wasn't a sign of future dinner experiences. An acclimitisation walk from the camp gave us our first glimpse of the peak, amazing, sat in awe at lunch and watched an avalanche take place on the side of the mountain - SCARY! Luckily this isn't the side we're going to climb up, but a clear indication that the end of the season is approaching. The testosterone levels are ridiculous.

Up to base camp (4,300m). This walk felt like the flipping Sahara desert, that's how dry and dusty it was, an absolute scorcher! We had a rest day here before going for an acclimitisation walk on the mountain "proper". We had a few rest days up in the mountain to help us get used to the altitude. Just as well, cause we'd suffer later on if we didn't. Rest days consisted of quizzes and poker mainly. The boys are getting lairy, and everything is an innuendo. Lots of banter, great fun.

We carried our tents and food up the mountain from base camp, so to ease the load, we split this into a few parts.
Base camp - camp 1 (4,900m) - base camp - camp 1 (with more stuff) - camp 2 (5,400m) - base camp.

So when we went up for real we only had to carry our sleeping bags and tents. These walks were only about 3 hours each, but gaining a lot of altitude.

Now you can't imagine how dirty it is with all the dust and sweaty men around, so imagine my delight when I find a place to have a shower on the mountain!! Not amazing, but clean water, and it sure felt great for about 2 days and then I realised that putting on the same horrible dirty clothes negates the shower. SILLY.

Interview day was our last day at base camp before our summit attempt - not only was I performing an interview at high altitude in below freezing conditions, but our satellite went down the 24 hours surrounding the interview, I was literally running around the place to try and find signal. I couldn't call at the set time, and after eventually managing to beg a German guy for a satellite phone and telephoning as soon as I could, I was delayed from the set time by half an hour. The interviewers delayed the next interview and took my call, but I couldn't hear much of what they said, and the satellite cut out during the third question. I called back as soon as I could, but they had already started the next interview. I then called back again about half an hour later as requested and continued the interview, but the satellite cut out AGAIN, although not for more than a minute; thankfully, so I was able to finish the questions. A NIGHTMARE in short.

So the climb up. The ACTUAL reason why I'm in a mountain in the Andes. Started with a hailstorm the size of golfballs. There are actual HOLES in the tent. Crushing pain in my ribs on the way up to Camp 1 (4,900m). Great. NOW I start getting altitude sickness. Nausea set in and absolutely FREEZING. Starting to wonder why the hell I'm doing this at this point.

Small walk up to Camp 2 (5,400m). We all get there absolutely smashed with exhausation and sleep until dinner. It's funny how you step outside the tent in the sun and freeze, and step into our tents (not even in sleeping bags) and have to take off EVERYTHING warm otherwise you melt. Closer to the sun I guess. Get some strange looks from the neighbours though. Have to get to bed before the sun goes down to warm up the sleeping bags before it gets too cold.

Straight up to Camp 3 (5,800m) the next day. By this point I'm not sleeping well because of the cold. Ice/snow build up in the tent from breathing and so windy that it's like a snowstorm in the tent. I have NO energy, stopping all the time to catch my breath (the air is so thin). Apparently the guys think I'm a bit of a "tough cookie", hope that opinion holds out.

We finally have an acclimitisation day at this altitude. MY GOODNESS I NEEDED IT. Pounding headache, dizzy, nausea, vomiting, stomach cramps and my eyes feel like they're coming out of my head. Seriously considering going down. Take 3 diamox and feel much better, ready for summit tomorrow? Sure. Why not?

3am start. Slept in all my gear to stay warm and not have to think. Tea? Nope. Not staying down. Porridge? I don't think so. Start walking, and my body is just saying no. I'm ready to turn back, and try on another morning.

THEN CAME THE INJECTIONS IN THE ASS. Dexamethasone and an anti-emetic later, I feel great, but already lagging behind the rest of the team. It's an 18 hour day, and I can't possibly relate to you how LONG that is when you're trying to eat, but everything's frozen. You only have 2 litres of water, and trying to make it last. Got to the last checkpoint, and 4 of the boys are ready to turn back. A motivational speech is in order. I give out sweets, water and paracetamol (I still am packing like a girl), and we get them going. One just can't hack it and turns back. We're taking our time, and about an hour from the summit we bump into the members of the team that didn't stop, coming down. The leaders have a fight. Not cool. The one who's coming down is in a bad mood (clearly) and tells us we're going to die if we go up now, it's too late. Turn back.

NO CHANCE. Two of the guys do, but the three musketeers carry on to the top and we make it!! YES!!!!!!! Feeeeels amazing. We're the highest people in the world at the time (Himalayas are out of season), and the last people on the top of the mountain that day.

Going down, we start absolutely psyched. But MY GOODNESS, it hurts the old knees!! 6 hours back down. Literally flop into sleeping bag, exhausted, after forcing some supernoodles down my throat.

A lot of tension around camp after that, but we make our way back down to Base camp where we're treated to Pizza and Beer. The best thing EVER.

Didn't get the PhD, a little disappointing, but there will be other opportunities, and at least I know that I'll never have an interview as bad as that ever again!

Weather takes a turn for the worse on our way out of the park on the last day, walk all the way out from base camp 6-7 hour walk, iPods blaring. The men set a mean pace, I was practically running to keep up, but it was SO GOOD TO GET TO A HOTEL AND HAVE A SHOWER. I had 3. Just to be sure I was clean.
Steak and wine for dinner and the best night's sleep I've had for the best part of 3 weeks.

Made our way back to Mendoza and had a night out on the town celebrating last night!! A proper grill place, and lots of wine and cocktails. The place we ended up in had some traditional tribal music and dancing going on at one point. Captivating stuff!!

Feels so good to be back in civilisation!!

Testing

So this is the beginning of my blog for the next 5 months - trying to make sure that this thing works before I go away so that I have a way to contact you all!!